Now that the new SHS 2-8-0 Consolidation is being run on customer's layouts, we are starting to receive questions about their operation on real layouts. I will try to document the answers to common questions here. If you don't see your question, or if you aren't satisfied with the answer, send us an email.
Q: I've had some problems with the smoke unit....
We had several
questions regarding our 2-8-0s production of smoke recently and I would like
to share a few observations. First, all smoke
fluids are not the same. We tested a bunch and found they seem to be
grouped into two types. Those who smoke a lot for a short period of
time and those with less smoke output for a much longer time. I think
that the lighter petroleum distillates vaporizes at a lower temperature
and produce more smoke, but evaporate much quicker. We selected Big
Puff smoke fluid for its ability to smoke for longer periods of time.
Our greatest fear is smoke units that are allowed to dry out. The
smoke unit element needs smoke fluid on the wick or the wick will char.
After this, the element can overheat and become damaged. The 2-8-0
boiler is much smaller that the AF engines and has a much smaller smoke
unit.
If you use a lighter smoke fluid, you will get much more smoke, but for a shorter time. Many people like this option, because running the smoke unit all the time smokes the room up too much. So they turn it on periodically for a short time, and they want impressive amounts of smoke during that time. The light fluids work great for that operations. It is easy to turn the smoke on or off with either DCC or LocoMatic.
Other people want to leave the smoke on all the time the loco is running. The heavier fluid, like the supplied Big Puff, is better for that because it lasts much longer.
Q: My 2-8-0 was smoking fine, I added some fluid, and now no smoke.
It is easy to get a bubble of smoke fluid to block the stack. Blowing down the stack with the smoke unit on usually clears it. If that doesn't work, you may have too much fluid in the unit, and you will have to let it evaporate. Only add 2-3 drops at a time.
Q: There are so many small detail parts, how do I pick the locomotive up without damaging it?
A: I've found that the best way is to grip the locomotive at the walkways, and the tender by the tender sides, for lifting the locomotive in an upright position. Be careful to lift the loco and tender evenly, there is not a lot of clearance between the cab roof and the tender. If the loco is on its side, I lift by one of the domes and one of the drivers. Make sure not to press the connecting rods when lifting. Don't lift by the sides of the wheels.
Although there are a lot of delicate looking details, they are pretty tough. Many have been made of brass for that reason. If you are careful, look at what you are gripping, and move slowly, you won't have any trouble.
Q: I notice that the plate between the loco and tender tends to ride up going around Flyer curves. Is that normal?
A: This locomotive is closer to scale, with more detail, than any other mass produced S Gauge locomotive in history. AF curves (20" radius) create some special challenges. For the plate between the locomotive and the tender to stay flat requires 30" radius minimum curves. On tighter curves it will ride up as you describe. If you prefer, you can also let it hang straight down where it won't be noticed. Just carefully lift the rear of the locomotive until the plate can slip by the tender.
Q: When running my LocoMatic equipped 2-8-0 with transformer control (mode 1, transformer sequencing) the locomotive periodically stops and just sits with its light on.
A: In mode 1 a momentary loss of power in the track, such as a momentary short, will cause the LocoMatic™ board to sequence into neutral. If this happens frequently, the most likely cause is the locomotive pilot wheels touching the underside of the pilot deck going over track irregularities or at the transition from level track to an incline. The easiest way to correct this is to put a 1" piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the pilot deck, right above the pilot wheels.
Q: Just what is the difference between Mode 1, Mode 2 and Mode 3?
A: Mode one is standard transformer sequencing. The Locomatic 10 button controller is not used. Mode 2 is still using the transformer to set speed, but the 10 button controller is used to control sound. It can also be used to control the lights and override sequencing. In mode 3, the transformer is set to full voltage, and all control is through the 10 button controller. In mode 3 the LocoMatic board is locked in neutral (by the dip switches) and thus the controller must be used to control locomotive speed and direction.
Q: When I shut off the transformer, my 2-8-0 sounds like my collie having a bad dream after eating a large baked bean supper. Will this do any harm?
A: The groaning and squealing sounds are caused by the capacitors in the sound unit discharging. It is completely normal, and causes no harm.
