After long and unrelenting pressure, mostly from Don Thompson and John Prior, I have re-implemented the Frequently Asked Questions page. It is now sorted into several categories, in an attempt to make it more usable. Feel free to send questions that you don't find answered here, and we will include them. As always, suggestions, additions, corrections very welcome!
2-8-0
Consolidation
Couplers
and Wheel sets
Steam Engine
DCC
Issues
Future Road Names
Track and trackwork
Track Cleaning Car
Power options, AC/DC
Prototype Information
Q: I purchased one S-Helper Service SW-1. I changed the wheel sets but now what code of rail can I use ? Code 100, code 83 or smaller ?
A: This past weekend our club the Central Jersey S Scaler set up there module
layout. On 16' module has code 110, 83 and 70 in different parts
of the yard. Our SW-1s (as well as all code 110 wheels) are able to negotiate
this height rail with no problem. One section of my layout
has an icing platform with code 55 rail, it will go over that too. The one
caveat is the size of the spike heads. We used railcraft small
spikes to lay the rails. If the heads are too large, it is possible that the
flanges could hit the rail heads.
Q: I have an SHS F7A that I want to change to scale (Kadee type) couplers. I installed the #0588 coupler assembly at the rear of the loco no problem. But the front is a different story. HELP!!
A: Our #00588 couplers are not intended for the front of the F A units, but the rear of the A or both ends of the B unit;. If you want to use a KD 802 (or KD 808 rust color), the first thing you need to do is find the black spacer that come with the A unit in one of the extra parts packages. I use a very small dot of Goo just to hold it to the bottom of the chassis while I screw (screws are included in the package) the coupler assy. One hint on using KD-802s is to pre-assemble, then with a small hot solder iron, touch the 4 corners of the coupler lid and coupler box to heat seal together. Then they do not fall apart when handled. We make up extra to have on hand for real quick conversions.
Q: What is the status of the 2-8-0 Steam Engine project?
A: Please check the status page.
Q: Will the 2-8-0 steamer include both AF compatible and code 110 wheels like all your diesels?
A: The 2-8-0 only includes the specific wheels that were ordered (either AF comp. or code 110 - not both). After much discussion, Mike and I felt we had to have the steamer be wheel specific. Although it would not be difficult to change drivers #2, #3 and #4, the crank pin screw for driver #1 is behind the cross head assembly and not easy to get to. If you want your pre-ordered 2-8-0 to come with code 110 drivers, you should update your order with your choice. All engines will include our #01295 KD style coupler, but American Flyer compatible drivers will have the AF style coupler installed.
Q: My 2-8-0 stopped smoking after I added fluid. How can I get it started again?
A: The problem usually seems to be too much fluid. Try blowing into the smoke stack a few times to see if that will clear it. Also, just running the locomotive for a while may burn out the excess fluid.
Q: I've had a problem with the locomotive suddenly going into neutral while running in mode 1 or 2. What might be causing that?
A: There is a small clearance between the front pilot wheel flanges and the underside of the pilot deck. With uneven track, and especially where track changes abruptly from level to an incline, the flanges can touch the deck, causing a momentary short which causes the LocoMatic unit to cycle in mode 1 or 2. The easiest fix (if you don't want to modify your layout) is to put a small piece of electrical tape on the underside of the pilot deck above the wheels, to act as insulation.
Q: I will want the hi-rail wheels and I understand those engines will come with Flyer couplers. But I will want to convert to Kadee couplers. I assume that is an easy conversion since engines are available with Kadee. Do you know whether the changeover can be made easily?
A: Yes, on the AF style 2-8-0, the #01295 KD style couplers for the tender are included as well as the spacer (or you can cut off the AF style coupler off of the square spacer on the tang). The conversion should take only a few minutes. You can read about this in the 2-8-0 manual on our "What's New" for Sept 10th and can be found at: http://www.showcaseline.com/WhatsNew/whatsnew.html
Q: My first choice is for an undecorated engine with a center mounted headlight, not mounted up on top of the boiler as indicated in the drawing on the website of the undecorated engine. Do you know if I could get a center light on an undecorated engine?
A: The black unlettered 2-8-0s come with both style of headlights mounted on the smokebox fronts. The center mounted headlight should be installed.
Q:. On the Soundtraxx equipped
engines, is the chuffing timed by a cam? Or if they are not cam equipped
and use the voltage driven chuff rate instead?
A: Right now we are working with Soundtraxx on making the Tsunami steam
engine sound decoder operate with our 2-8-0. The 2-8-0 has an optical
detector that can detect 4 chuffs per revolution. We expect the chuff to be
controlled by the optical detector.
.Q My layout is set up
with Digitrax DCC. I have ordered a 2-8-0 steamer. I ordered DCC. What I
need to know is will this engine run on my layout
which was AC that has been converted over to DCC including all of the engines?
In the future should I order AC or DC?
A: DCC uses high frequency AC( actually a 9.6Khz square wave) to power the trains. In the future, you should order your engines with DCC. Or, if you plan to have them converted to DCC, DC as they would cost less (no AC reverse unit to purchase then discard). Right now, all of our engines come with the option of DCC installed and all but our SW-1s can have DCC sound. If you have additional questions, please feel free to contact us.
Q: I am not aware of what Showcase means when they say DCC. It may mean it already has a decoder installed, it may mean that it is wired so that a decoder may be installed or it may mean that there's space to install a decoder if one desires to do so. Defining the DCC aspect sometimes varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and even sometimes between different models from the same manufacturer. It does leave much to be desired from a DCC dealer standpoint as to knowing what each piece of model railroad equipment has or needs.
A: All of our motive power has the NMRA DCC socket installed. Other than our SW-1, you can order our engines with DCC Sound decoders installed and we state that on the order form or our online ordering page. All of our diesel locomotives can be ordered with Lenz Gold DCC no sound decoders installed. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Q: I have (finally) installed the DCC decoder and harness in my F3A, but when I connect the MU wires correctly to the powered B unit, the B unit is not responding. It's just deadweight while the A unit powers away. I took the B unit shell off, by I don't see that there is a DC shorting plug installed. I see only the board with the holes that look like they should accept some sort of plug. Unless that IS the DC shorting plug itself?
A: We can do several things to check on the B unit. First, use a VOM to each MU cables, make sure they are a closed circuit, then attach them to the B unit to see that you have a closed circuit through the motor. If all of the test are positive, remove the shell and installing the DC shorting plug to see if it work OK (without the MU cables installed, of course). If that checks out, you need to check the A unit. Put the MU cables just into the A unit and let the engine move, you should see a voltage through the MU cables intended for the B unit. Then ensure the small springs in the A unit are making contact with the circuit board by making sure the shell is screwed on all the way.
Q: About the product line for 2006, you indicated that Reading F7s may be in the offing.
A: We are planning another run of F unit to include F3 (phase 2 and 4) and F7s (phase 1). Right now we are waiting for the production of the 2-8-0 to be completed. As you know, lots of stuff in "S", as a small company we have to watch our pennies and future products are dependent on sales of current stock and the 2-8-0. We have alerted the builder that another F unit run is planned and have established the quantity of units that we would like produced. We have a tentative list of roadnames and the Reading is on that list. We have requested a change in the drive tooling and are waiting for that tooling revision to be completed. I am currently accumulating the necessary research materials for the artwork. If all goes well with the 2-8-0, I think a 2006 delivery is a possibility.
Q: Any word on the DM&IR switchers
A: As you know, the 2-8-0
project is finally in production. I will be in China the last week of October
to review the production models to be shipped. It
look like some if not all of our 2-8-0s will be produced in 2005. These delays
have extended into several of our other projects. I am hoping once the 2-8-0
arrive and start to move, we can get back on track on the DM&IR SW-9s as
well as several other projects in limbo.
Q: What is The radius of S-Trax. I've seen various numbers listed for this, on this and other sites, anywhere from 19 to 19-1/2 inches (radius)....
A: We needed to know the exact dimension that AF used, and asked Dick Karnes for help. With his background in Civil Engineering and a real wiz as code 100 track, we knew he was the perfect person to ask. He told us the centerline measurement was 18.55". But, like 0-27, the important measurement for our market is the size that it would take up on the trainboard. For that is 20" on the outside of the rubber roadbed. We made our track to match. The 19" to 19.5" radius maybe the distance of the outside rail or the measurement outside of the metal ties.
Q: My question is related to the radius of the track as I bought 2 boxes of 19" 00259 but he only had 1 box of 24" 00292 available, your catalog now list the 00292 as 25". Did the actual radius of the track change us did you merely update the description as eventually I will need to get another box to complete the 24" loop?
A: Yes, we changed the number, but not the track. We learn as we go, most model railroaders measure radius by the centerline (between the rails). But Lionel 0-27 was the area the track occupied or the outside radius of the ties. After the first run, we had several customers try to put a loop of the 00292 on a 4'X8' sheet of plywood. So, we changed the number to reflect the radius of the outside of the roadbed. Oh, the trick to use the 00292 on a sheet of plywood is to use two sections of 00259 (20":radius) with 4 sections of 00292 or 00292-00292-00259-00259-00292-00292. This will give you an inch from the edge of the board on either side of the roadbed. If this does not answer your question, let us know.
Q: Is there a trick to installing the insulators? I am using your ballasted track, and can't get the insulators on the connecting end -- no problem obviously with only the prong. Before I wreck a piece of track trying to force it, I thought I'd ask if there is something I am missing. I need to get these in place to break the electrical connection at some switch points.
A: Did you remove the metal connector? If not, I use a pair of needle nose pliers. From the top, you need to grab the end of the metal rail joiner and twist it off like opening a can or sardines or ham with a key (maybe they are not made that way any more). If it is straight track, use the end with the rail joiner that does NOT have the tab (extension below the ties for the electrical connection).
Q: I need to know about the switch wiring. I'm connecting them to Lionel's 180 and an SC-2 so I can operate them from the remote and will be cutting off the plugs. I need to know of the four wires, which is the common and which are the A and B.
A: We copied the color code from the master. It was so easy, yellow is for the light (dah), green throws the switch straight,, red to the siding leaving black for the common. Please remember, that the all S switches use momentary power only. If you give constant current, the coils will fry.
Track Cleaning Car
Q: Track cleaning Car: 1. Generally speaking, how many rotations of the car
around the track are necessary before the track is considered reasonably clean?
(I
don’t
want to overuse the car.)
A: Wow, I do not know that one. We run them at our train shows during set up. When I test our 5' X 9' display layout, I run one around slowly (using a LocoMatic engine, I am able to run the track cleaning car at full voltage while the engine creeps around, this is just one way they can be operated). We have two loops, so we run on one then the other. I guess 10 to 15 minutes.
Q: Track cleaning Car: 2: MNP recommends lubricating the car, but they don’t indicate how frequently, nor do they indicate how to access the parts that need lubricated.
A: Yes, we discussed this with MNP as we did wear out a gear box as I never lubricated (but, I bet we ran it for over 100 hours over several years). The roof comes off of your boxcar and you can see the gear box on each motor. I think a little grease hear would be good. While you are at it, a drop or two of bearing oil on the motor bearing would be a good idea although we never burnt up a motor.
Q: Track cleaning Car: 3: How often do the cotton pads need to be replaced? How does one purchase additional cotton pads?
A: We have additional pads, I forget the price and I am not sure if they are on the web site. We have run the pads when they were pretty black and they seemed to work OK. I am sure they work best when new. One of our customers told me he cleaned his in the dishwasher. I have not tried this. Maybe I am afraid to ask my wife, Robin if I can put them in the dishwasher. I would be afraid the adhesive on the bottom of the rubber mandrills would come loose. We sell lots of pads.
Q: Track cleaning Car: 4: Should any fluid be placed on the pads before the car is used? Specifically, is there some type of special cleaning fluid that should be placed on the track or on the pads before cleaning the track?
A: We run the pads dry.
I think it is more important to realize that our track cleaning car is intended
to keep clean
track clean. Once you have so much gunk on the track that the trucks cannot
pickup power, they will not work. That is why we run them before each show
or for long shows, in the morning before the show.
Q: Track cleaning Car:5: Do you recommend using the car as regular running stock when the rubber and cotton pads are removed or should the car only be used when cleaning the track? (That is, it’s a very nice looking car!).
A: We have run them in trains at the show while they clean the track. For us, that is the best way to demo them and people can see them operate. They do make noise, but so what. Ever stand next to a real train running down the right o' way? So loud you can hardly think.
Q: (1) Do S Helper Service locomotives feature forward-neutral-reverse direction sequence operation (via a power pack controller) or the more realistic forward-reverse operation? Can your locomotives stop (fully) and then resume moving in the same direction without having to cycle through neutral?
A: Yes, our reverse pcb units do feature forward-neutral-reverse direction sequence.
But, we have a NMRA socket installed in all of our engines that allow....
- DC only operation with realistic forward-reverse operation using the DC polarity
to change direction.
- AC or DC for use with the LocoMatic Sound reverse unit
that has it's own 10 button controller that can set direction, speed, turn
on lights, bell, horn,
etc....
- AC or DC for use with DCC (digital command control) that addresses each
engine for use with DCC sound. This can be used by any NMRA DCC system.
Any of the above would be a yes to question 2.
Q: I currently have a mixture of American Flyer, The Showcase Line and American Models engines. They are all highrail and work fine using my old American Flyer transformers. However, I have a starter set from The Showcase Line and received a DC power pack with the set. Will the power pack work with the American Flyer and American Models engines? Thank you, Keep up the good work! Kenneth S.
A: Yes, all AC Gilbert trains used universal wound motors and can use DC. Like all of our engines, the AM engines use DC motors with AC/DC reverse units like ours. If you have on of our F-3s, you should use the AC output or DC max voltage output with the 10 button LocoMatic controller with our DC power pack.
Q: I would like to know if any of your hoppers have lettering suitable for my era ( the mid 30s).
A: Lets see, the C&O car are correct from 1920 on, the PRR after WWII, The Waddell coal are the 50's to 60's, the MEC is the 70's.
Q: What were the prototypes that SHS PS-2 "Two Bay Covered Hopper" and "Three Bay Covered Hopper" models are based on?
A: A tip of the hat to Lee Johnson who supplied us with the general arrangement drawing for a 1957 SP PS-2 covered hopper. We based the three bay PS-2 hopper on the 1953 version. The major spotting difference between the two is the corner post that is above the bolster, the earlier cars had a channel, and the 1957 and later cars had the same type of post as all of the others. The three bay car started from a phone call from a CB&Q fan who wondered when we would come out with a CB&Q 2 bay PS-2 hopper. I told the caller that I had not been able to locate any information that they CB&Q ever owned a 2 bay PS-2 but had several runs of the three bay. He OK, make me some of those, and we did. I do not remember the gentleman's name, but I am very grateful for his input.
